Exploring Frankfurt, Germany’s Urban Hub

Although relatively few travelers set aside time to explore Frankfurt, many people pass through the city, either because they are using its airport or because they are traveling between the wine-and-castle section of the Rhine to the north and the picturesque Romantic Road farther south.

As a major center of trade and banking, Frankfurt is certainly not the kind of city that immediately suggests charm or quaintness. Nevertheless, even a two- or three-hour break in the city center can become an enjoyable and memorable experience. The center is only about a 12-minute train journey from the airport, making a short visit particularly convenient.

Arriving in Frankfurt

Frankfurt may not offer the most welcoming first impression to visitors arriving by train. The neighborhood around the main station is the part of the city where authorities attempt to concentrate and manage the local sex and drug scene. Fortunately, getting away from this area is easy. A quick Metro ride or a short walk will take visitors toward some of the city's major museums, pedestrian-friendly shopping areas, and pleasant green spaces along the river.

A City Built for Commerce

People have been coming to Frankfurt to do business since the early Middle Ages. Even the city's name reflects its geographical role, with the “-furt” referring to a place where the river could be crossed. Over the centuries, trading became deeply connected to Frankfurt's identity.

The city has always had a practical and business-oriented character, with many major decisions shaped by commercial interests. Even the destruction caused by the bombs of World War II was eventually treated as an opportunity to reconstruct the city in a way that would better serve modern commerce.

Frankfurt's Mainhattan Skyline

Today, Frankfurt is recognizable for its impressive collection of skyscrapers rising along the banks of the Main River. This skyline has earned the city the nickname “Mainhattan.” Frankfurt has more high-rise buildings than any other city in Germany, with many of them serving as headquarters for major banks.

One of the best ways to appreciate the skyline is to visit the Main Tower and ascend to its 54th floor. For roughly $10, visitors can access the city's finest public observation point and enjoy a sweeping panorama of Frankfurt. Those looking for a less expensive alternative can head to the rooftop of the Galeria Kaufhof department store, order a drink, and enjoy another surprisingly impressive view.

Exploring Römerberg

Frankfurt does retain a number of historic attractions, and many of them are concentrated around Römerberg, the city's historic central square. The area was associated with some of Frankfurt's earliest major commercial institutions, including the city's first trade fairs in the 12th century, its first bank in 1405, and its stock exchange, established in 1585.

Across from the present-day Town Hall stands a charming line of half-timbered buildings. Although these houses were reconstructed in 1983, they provide visitors with an idea of how the center of Frankfurt looked before wartime destruction devastated the square.

Nearby, the Frankfurt Historical Museum is considerably more engaging than its name might suggest. One of its highlights is a large-scale model showing what Frankfurt's old town looked like around 1927, offering a useful glimpse into the city's historic appearance.

St. Bartholomew's Cathedral

Just past Römerberg stands St. Bartholomew's Cathedral, a striking red-sandstone church and one of the most significant historic buildings associated with the Holy Roman Empire.

Beginning in 1152, emperors were elected at this church, and between 1562 and 1792, ten emperors were crowned here. Most of the building visible today does not actually date from that distant period, but the cathedral remains an impressive place to visit.

Several important pieces of medieval art have survived, including 15th-century frescoes depicting episodes from the life of St. Bartholomew, the church's patron saint. Another notable treasure is the beautiful altarpiece in the Chapel of Sleeping Mary. Although it was too large to be removed from the building during the war, it managed to survive, protected by large quantities of sandbags and, undoubtedly, a considerable amount of good fortune.

Frankfurt's Apple Wine Tradition

Visitors should not leave the neighborhood around the historic center without stopping at the Kleinmarkthalle. This lively indoor market is considered one of the most appealing market halls in Germany and is an excellent place to enjoy a casual and uncomplicated lunch.

Frankfurt is also famous for its apple wine, known locally as Apfelwein. This traditional drink is commonly served in glasses designed with a shape that makes them easier to hold, even when diners have greasy fingers after eating Frankfurt's sausage specialties.

Frankfurt's Jewish Heritage

Frankfurt was home to one of Germany's most significant Jewish communities for centuries. The city was also the birthplace of Anne Frank and the longtime home of the Rothschild family, making its Jewish history particularly important.

The Jewish Museum, located in the former Rothschild family mansion, presents the history of Jewish life in Frankfurt from around 1800 to the present. Its exhibitions provide a perspective that can be moving and painful at times, while also highlighting moments of resilience and hope.

Near Römerberg and the cathedral lies an area that was once home to Europe's oldest Jewish ghetto. Several memorial sites can be found here around the former location of the city's principal synagogue. The Holocaust Memorial at today's Börneplatz commemorates the approximately 12,000 Jewish residents of Frankfurt who were murdered during the Holocaust.

The Städel Museum

Visitors interested in art should cross the Main River to reach the Städel Museum. Among the nine museums located along the river, the Städel is arguably the most rewarding destination for art lovers.

Its vast collection covers European art from the Old Masters through modern and contemporary periods. Despite the enormous range of works on display, the museum manages to feel accessible rather than overwhelmingly large, making it possible to experience a broad survey of European art in a single visit.

An Evening Along the Main

If you have enough time for an evening walk, the riverside promenade known as the Schaumainkai is an excellent place to spend it. Another option is to visit one of Frankfurt's traditional apple-wine taverns, many of which can be found a short distance inland from the river.

Apfelwein has been consumed in this region since the era of Charlemagne, around 1,200 years ago. Its popularity increased significantly during the 16th century after disease damaged local grapevines and made traditional wine production more difficult.

Apple wine contains roughly 5.5 percent alcohol, putting it closer to beer in strength. Like wine, however, it can also be served warm and seasoned with spices during the colder months. Its tart flavor can take some getting used to. Local residents who have grown accustomed to it often drink it from traditional glasses whose textured surfaces make them easier to grip, particularly when the drink is being enjoyed alongside greasy food.

Frankfurt's Local Specialties

While exploring Frankfurt, visitors should also try one of the city's best-known culinary specialties, grüne Sosse, or green sauce. It is prepared by combining sour cream with seven different herbs and is commonly served alongside beef, schnitzel, or hard-boiled eggs.

Another local favorite is spare ribs, which are known here as Leiterchen, a name meaning “little ladders” and referring to the appearance of the rib bones.

A Different Side of Germany

Frankfurt may not be the prettiest or most traditionally charming city in Germany, but that is precisely part of its character. It combines modern financial power with historic churches, medieval traditions, museums, riverside scenery, Jewish heritage, skyscrapers, and the long-standing culture of apple wine.

From its less polished neighborhoods to its elegant museums and historic center, Frankfurt offers an unfiltered glimpse into 21st-century Germany. Even a short stop in the city can reveal far more than travelers might expect.